Exploring the Cotswolds: A Complete Guide to the English Countryside
The Cotswolds is simply one of the most charming regions I have ever visited. The historic villages are seemingly untouched – market squares still bristling with life, dreamy country houses dressed in ivy and vines, and sleepy cottages lining the narrow cobblestone roads. Here’s my complete guide to visiting the Cotswolds, including the best villages, where to stay, and all the best things to do!
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Getting to the Cotswolds + Getting Around
Public transportation is a bit scarce in the Cotswolds. I did see a few coach buses here and there, but for maximum flexibility, you’re best off renting a car. Keep in mind, cars are driven on the left side of the road in the UK! There’s not much traffic out here to negotiate with, but is it definitely an adjustment. I would like to also note that phone service can be a bit spotty between some villages, so check your GPS and make sure you have a good idea where you are going ahead of time, just in case you have a few off-the-grid patches.
The Cotswolds are roughly 2.5 hours from London, so be prepared for a bit of a haul. I visited from Bath, so the first village I visited (Castle Combe) was only about 30 minutes away!
If all of this makes you nervous, there’s another option! There are some Cotswolds Day Trip tours out of Bath that include all your transportation in a small van. I took a tour with Mad Max Tours and it was absolutely incredible. The tour guide was knowledgable and funny, and it was so lovely to not have to worry about driving/navigating.
Overall, here’s my recommendation: take a day trip tour for your first time in the Cotswolds so you can get a feel for all the villages. Then, when you return, rent a car and stay a bit longer in your favorites!
Castle Combe is one of the most beautiful villages in the Cotswolds. It’s also one of the busiest, so I recommend getting here early. We arrived around 8am and nearly had the village to ourselves!
The current buildings date back to the 15th century, when the village was a thriving part of the wool industry thanks to the mill powered by the by brook. Around the 16th century, the water levels dropped and the industry moved away from Castle Combe, leaving it relatively empty. The town still has a bit of that quiet, ghost-town feel, despite its 350 residents.
Things to Do
see the market cross
A key element in many Cotswolds villages is the Market Cross, a place where farmers and merchants would buy and sell their goods. These market crosses were especially important for the wool trade in this region.
Snap a Photo by the By Brook
One of the most famous photo spots in the Cotswolds is the iconic bridge over the by brook. It’s impossible to miss this bridge, as you will drive it as you enter the village. This spot is relatively empty early in the mornings, but I imagine it gets quite busy in the afternoons.
St Andrews Church
This church originally dates back to the 13th century, but was restored in 1850 due to some structural issues. The church maintains some of its original components, including the oldest working faceless clock in the country!
The Manor House
This 600 year old country house is a staple of Castle Combe. You can reserve a stay here, or just visit for a delicious meal at Bybrook, their Michelin-starred restaurant!
Little Picnic Shop
If you’re after a more casual dining experience, visit the Little Picnic Shop for a homemade picnic basket! You will also find honesty boxes outside some of the homes, where locals leave baked goods, jams, etc. on a “honesty policy”. Grab some treats and leave some money!
The highest village in the Cotswolds, Stow-on-the-Wold originally functioned as a fort, but later joined the rest of the Cotswolds in the bustling wool trade. It is known to be the most haunted town in the region – all three hotels here have frequent paranormal sightings. The village is small but quite charming, and there’s a number of tearooms and restaurants!
Things to Do
St Edward's Church
This medieval church was built between the 11th and 15th centuries, and has become quite famous for its North door. The door is rumored to have inspired the Doors of Durin in Lord of the Rings!
Market Square
Stow-on-the-Wold’s market square has been hosting markets since 1107, making it the oldest in the Cotswolds! A farmer’s market is still held here from April to September on the second Thursday and last Thursday of the month.
Antique Shops
I’m not much of a collector, but it’s quite fun to browse through the antique shops here! Supposedly, it’s some of the best finds in the region.
The Porch House
One of the haunted hotels I mentioned earlier, The Porch House is a Stow-on-the-Wold landmark. It’s England’s oldest inn, dating back to 975. You can book a stay here (if you dare), or you can just pop in for a lovely lunch or dinner like I did! Get a good look at the fireplace – there’s witches marks to ward off evil spirits!
Lucy's Tearoom
If the idea of a haunted lunch isn’t your cup of tea (pun intended), pop over to Lucy’s Tearoom for a beautiful cream tea and treats!
Bibury and Castle Combe are in a tough competition for my favorite Cotswold village! Bibury dates back to the Iron Age, where it originally functioned as a fort before transforming into -you guessed it – a major player in the wool industry. I found Bibury to be one of the most charming villages in the Cotswolds!
Things to Do
Arlington Row
The cottages on Arlington Row date back to 1380! They were originally used as wool stores, then converted to weaver’s cottages in the 17th century. Now, they are let to private tenants, with one available as a holiday rental! The row of cottages is actually featured on the inside of the British passport!
St Mary's Church
St Mary’s is yet another old church, with features from many different centuries as the church has undergone several restorations. I didn’t find the church itself that interesting, to be honest, but the surroundings are just beautiful. It began raining (typical England), but it was the moodiest, most beautiful atmosphere.
Wander
I found so many adorable little cottages simply by getting lost here! I feel like Bibury really captures that Cotswolds countryside essence just so perfectly.
One of the most bustling Cotswolds villages, Bourton-on-the-Water is a definite visit! The town gets its name from the River Windrush that flows right through the center of it. It’s quite a beautiful and lively little village.
Things to Do
Walk Along the River
One of the loveliest things to do here is walk along the river, enjoying the views of beautiful cottages dotting the riverbanks and the five bridges the town is renowned for!
See the Model Village
I unfortunately didn’t know about the model village until after visiting and missed out. However, there’s a model village that is 1/9 the size of the actual town and is updated regularly – it’s accurate down to the cafés, shops, hotels, etc.!
Check out all the Shops
If you’re looking for a souvenir, Bourton-on-the-Water is the best place to snag one! There’s plenty of shops selling local and handmade wares. This village is also famous for its perfumery!
St Lawrence's Church
Are you sick of churches yet? If not, head to St Lawrence’s! This church was built in the 11th century and is where it all began – it was the first building in town.
Eats
Bourton-on-the-Water is a great place to grab lunch or dinner on your Cotswolds tour, just simply due to the abundance of restaurants! Here’s some of my recommendations:
BAKERY ON THE WATER | A vibrant little spot for breakfast or lunch, with a riverside terrace.
THE WILLOW | A lovely restaurant for lunch or dinner with a hearty menu. It’s a beautiful setting, with a charming interior and patio.
THE ROSE TREE | A family run restaurant with good, home-cooked food. It has a gorgeous patio, in a prime location for people watching.
I’ve placed Malmesbury last on my list just because I felt it was the most underwhelming of all the Cotswolds towns I visited (actually it was Tetbury – but I didn’t find it interesting enough to even deserve a spot on this list.) Nonetheless! Malmesbury is the oldest continuously inhabited town in England, which earns it a visit on your Cotswolds tour. Current structures in town date back to the 5th century, but recent excavations have found items dating back to 500 BC!
things to Do
Visit the Malmesbury Abbey + Gardens
A 12th century Abbey, nestled in the heart of a garden housing one of the largest rose collections in England! I visited the Cotswolds in late autumn, so the rose blooms were sadly gone.
Visit the Old Bell Hotel
I wouldn’t recommend staying in Malmesbury as there isn’t much to do, but you can pop into the Old Bell Hotel for a cup of coffee or a lovely dinner. The hotel is the oldest in England, dating back to 1220!
Castle Combe
The quintessential English country house retreat! Book your stay in one of their 50 unique luxury rooms, enjoy a fine dining experience in their Michelin-starred restaurant, or enjoy the activities such as golfing, tennis, or croquet. This is one of the most beautiful hotels in all of England!
Bibury
A picturesque cottage covered in ivy, the Swan Hotel is my choice if you’re basing yourself in Bibury! You’ll find unique rooms, a beautiful library for afternoon tea, and private riverside gardens to enjoy an afternoon.
Stow-on-the-Wold
Possibly haunted, but absolutely charming, the Porch House is a beautiful historic country house full of character.
Bourton-on-the-Water
A charming guest house with simple furnishings and a lovely little courtyard! It’s one of the more affordable options in the Cotswolds.