Positano, Italy – the gem of the Amalfi Coast and the perfect destination to live out all of your Italian summer fantasies! It’s no secret that Positano is one of the most stunning destinations in Europe, and every year thousands of people flock here to enjoy the beauty of the Amalfi Coast. In this travel guide, I’ll give you all the best things to do during your time in Positano, where to stay, and tips for avoiding the crowds!
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When to Visit
My biggest (and most important) recommendation for visiting Positano is visiting during shoulder season.
From June to August, crowds flock in for the summer and the town becomes virtually impassible. Book your trip for May or September to enjoy beautiful weather and fewer crowds. We visited in late September and had gorgeous 75-80ºF (24-26ºC) weather every day!
I don’t recommend visiting in the winter months. Although you will essentially have the town to yourself, many restaurants and business close down for the winter. The cold also won’t be suitable for swimming in the ocean or taking a boat trip, so you’d miss a lot of the classic Positano experience!
What To Do
Visit the beaches
One of the best parts about the Amalfi Coast is enjoying the coast itself! Settle in next to the water and enjoy the views with a book (and a drink) in hand.
Something to note about beaches in Positano is they are not soft, sandy beaches. They are quite rocky and made up of a ton of little pebbles. Because of this, you will absolutely want to wear shoes! It’s also why I recommend choosing a beach club over the public beach – you’ll be much more comfortable on a lounger than you will be laying on a towel on the ground.
Free Beach Access
If you’d still prefer the towel on the beach approach over a beach club, there’s a few options for you! Much of the Positano coastline is taken up by sunbeds and umbrellas, but there’s still a few areas of free coastline available.
SPIAGGIA GRANDE | The main beach in Positano, located just next to the Marina. This is definitely the most accessible of all the beaches, but also by far the busiest. You’ll have to arrive early in the morning to snag a spot here.
FORNILLO BEACH | A short walk away from Positano and much more secluded. There are several beach clubs here as well, but a small stretch of the shore is reserved for public beach access.
Spend the Day at a beach club
ARIENZO
BEST FOR: the perfect beach day
Arienzo Beach Club is my personal favorite, and you’ve likely seen its iconic orange umbrellas and sunbeds all over Instagram! The beach club is located on Arienzo beach and is reached by a shuttle boat from Marina Grande (the main Positano marina). There is a small stretch of public beach on Arienzo, but the beach club can only be visited by reservation, making it feel much more exclusive than some others. Your reservation includes your sunbeds/umbrella, a bottle of wine or champagne, and lunch. We had such an amazing time here – lunch was delicious, the service was fantastic, and the ambience was so much fun!
PRICING | Pricing starts at 140€ per person, but can get much more expensive depending on the package you choose. Your package will include your sunbeds, towels, lunch, and a bottle of wine/champagne.
RESERVATIONS | Make your reservation by clicking here!
SHUTTLE BOAT | The shuttle starts at 10am and departs every 30 minutes until 1pm. Service back to Marina Grande begins at 3:45pm and runs until 6:30. The boat is free with your reservation!
ONE FIRE
BEST FOR: a party
Owned by the same company as Arienzo and similarly sporting the classic orange umbrellas, One Fire is Arienzo’s cousin in Praiano. It is also accessible by a boat leaving Positano’s main pier, so that’s why I’m including it on this list! One Fire has more of a “club” type feel, with loud music and lots of dancing. It’s a ton of fun!
PRICING | 65€ for first row of sunbeds, 40€ for the others. Pricing does not include food/drink/towels.
RESERVATIONS | Email onefirebeach@gmail.com for a reservation.
SHUTTLE BOAT | Departures are at 11am and 1pm from Marina Grande, and return at 5:30 and 6:30pm. The boat is free with your reservation!
LIDO L'INCANTO
BEST FOR: an iconic view
Located right on Spiaggia Grande, the main beach of Positano, this beach club offers an incredible backdrop of the town. However, due to its location, it gets hectic during the day with lots of tourists, day trippers, and beachgoers. It’s directly next to the marina, so hordes of people are loading and unloading off the ferries. For that reason, I would recommend other beach clubs over this one! My honest recommendation is to visit the free beach of Spiaggia Grande early in the morning or late in the evening just before sunset to experience the beautiful view without the crowds. However, this beach club is the most affordable and most convenient, so here’s the details:
PRICING | 35€ per person for the front row of loungers, 30€ for all other rows. Towels, food, and drink are not included in this price.
RESERVATIONS | Make your reservation by clicking here!
La Scogliera
BEST FOR: luxury
This iconic beach club is also conveniently located on Spiaggia Grande, but is on the far side of the beach away from the Marina. The beach club is beautiful and luxurious, and is often a spot where VIP guests will visit during their time in Positano. Reservations fill up VERY quickly, so make sure to snag your spot in advance.
PRICING | 200-500€ for two beds, depending on location of sunbed and view.
RESERVATIONS | Make your reservation by clicking here!
Have a Boat Day
One of my all-time favorite moments from Italy was cruising along the Amalfi Coast on a boat ride. We chose a 7 hour boat ride with stops in Amalfi, Praiano, and for swimming. Our captain stopped along the coast to point out notable spots and tell us the history behind them. It was such an incredible day, and I can’t recommend it enough!
CHOOSE YOUR TOUR:
7 HR AMALFI COAST GROUP TOUR | A small boat (max 12 people) cruising along the coast with a stop in Amalfi to explore and a stop in Praiano for lunch.
PRIVATE HALF DAY AMALFI COAST TOUR | A private option lasting 4 hours, cruising along the coast. A really great romantic choice for couples!
PRIVATE FULL DAY AMALFI COAST TOUR | A great option if you’ve got a large group! This private boat can be booked for up to ten people and lasts 8 hours, sailing along the Amalfi Coastline, then to Capri and the Blue Grotto.
Ride a Vespa Along the Coast
One of the best ways to explore the Amalfi Coast is on a vespa. I would ONLY recommend this for those who have experience and are comfortable on a vespa, as these roads can get quite busy and are very curvy! The coastal road, SR163 links Positano, Praiano, Amalfi, and Ravello together. It’s an amazing way to see some of the main towns of the Amalfi Coast and enjoy the scenery of the coastal road!
NOTE | If you’re not from a country within the EU, make sure you have a valid international driver’s license!
Vespa Rentals
Positano Scooter has great vespas for about 75-100€ per day! This is a great option if you want to explore the Amalfi Coast at your own pace, or if you’d like to have the scooter for several days! It’s also much more economical than taking a tour and allows you much more freedom.
VESPA TOUR
If it’s your first time in Positano and you want to make the most out of it with a tour, here’s a great half day tour! This tour will take you through Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello on the back of a beautiful vintage vespa. It’s definitely pricier than renting a scooter yourself, but comes with the added bonus of a knowledgable guide!
WANDER through town
The town of Positano is filled with winding cobblestone streets built into the side of the coast. There’s quite a few steps and it can be pretty hilly, so make the stroll easier on yourself by making plenty of stops in the adorable shops lining the streets. You’ll find all kinds of goods here: ceramics, clothing, handmade sandals, limoncello, souvenirs… the list goes on and on. Stop in a café or a bar for a drink, and peruse all the beautiful shops for something wonderful to take back home!
I also highly recommend wandering over into Fornillo, a must less populated area of Positano. Here, you will still find incredible views of the town without all the crowds! There are lovely little bars, cafés, and restaurants to pop into for a drink or a bite to eat. It’s also much easier to grab a table without a reservation in Fornillo compared to the center of Positano.
Enjoy an Aperitivo
Embrace the Italian custom of a pre-dinner aperitivo at one of the beautiful bars along the coast. Many restaurants in Positano do not open for dinner until 7pm at the earliest, so grab a drink and enjoy a slow-paced Italian summer evening.
FRANCO’S BAR | A highly famous, incredibly adorable bar with beautiful views over Positano. They do not take reservations, and seating is first come first served. A line starts forming about 30minutes before opening, so I would recommend getting here early if you don’t want to wait an hour or longer for a seat!
LI GALLI BISTROT | Located right along one of the balconies overlooking the water, Li Galli offers one of the best views over Positano! They make an incredible Hugo Spritz, and we enjoyed it so much we actually ended up having lunch here too! The service here was wonderful, and everyone was so friendly. Highly recommend!
FLY LOUNGE | Located atop Music on the Rocks, this upscale cocktail bar offers a great view while sipping on your drink. It’s a bit pricey though, even for Positano!
Watch the sunset
Of course, you have to watch the sun dip down below the horizon, casting the town in a golden glow. Any of the previously mentioned cocktail bars (Franco’s, Li Galli Bistrot, and FLY) are all a great spot to watch the sunset. You can also get a front row view on Via Cristoforo Colombo, the street Li Galli is located on! We actually stopped along this street several times to snap photos and enjoy the view. It’s an incredible birds-eye panorama over Positano!
Go Dancing
I briefly mentioned Music on the Rocks, a club underneath FLY Lounge. While I’m not a huge nightlife person (I’m usually in bed asleep by 10pm), I had so much fun dancing here! The club looks like a cave, giving it such a unique and fun ambience Things don’t heat up until around midnight, so grab a drink at FLY and wait for the party to start down below!
Take a Day Trip
The great thing about Positano is it’s a great base for exploring the rest of the Amalfi Coast. You can visit Amalfi, Praiano, Ravello, Sorrento, or Capri for just a day without spending a ton of time in transit! Here’s the details:
Amalfi
The birthplace of limoncello and the coast’s namesake, Amalfi is one of the most popular towns to visit. It’s very small and you can easily see it in a few hours! Check out the Duomo, grab a lemon treat, and enjoy the beautiful views the town has to offer! There is a small beach, but it gets quite crowded quite fast. I would recommend enjoying your beach days during your time in Positano or Praiano!
GETTING HERE | You can visit Amalfi on a boat tour, via scooter, or by taking the ferry! The ferry takes about 20 minutes.
Praiano
A much quieter and less touristy town overlooking the sea. Grab a spot at One Fire beach club or wander the narrow streets lined with flowers!
GETTING THERE | The best way to get to Praiano is by scooter or bus. There’s no ferry, and the town is situated so high on the cliffs you’d have quite a few steps to take if arriving by boat! However, if you’re visiting Praiano to go to One Fire, the shuttle service from Positano will drop you off right where you need to be.
CAPRI
This luxurious little island is one of the most popular day trips from Positano! Go shopping along Via Camarelle for all the luxury designer brands tou could imagine, or settle into a beach chair at La Fontelina, one of the most exclusive beach clubs in Italy!
LA FONTELINA BEACH CLUB | A luxury beach club on the northern coast of Capri. This is truly one of the most aesthetically pleasing places I’ve ever visited! Reservations are hard to come by, so make yours in advance. Keep in mind, La Fontelina has quite a few regulars and VIP customers – and these customers are given priority seating.
If you’d like to combine your boat day with a visit to Capri, you can absolutely do that! Generally the boat tours to Capri last about 7-10 hours, so you’ll have some time to browse the luxury shops, enjoy lunch at an elegant restaurant, or have some cocktails with a view. However, if you’d like to visit a beach club or simply just maximize your time on the island, I would recommend taking the ferry. The trip only takes 30 minutes, so you will get to spend quite a bit more time on the island itself. The choice is yours!
PRIVATE BOAT TOUR TO CAPRI | Here’s a great private option for couples or a group!
FULL DAY CAPRI BOAT TOUR | Explore the island from the sea, stop for swimming, then get 3-5 hours on the island to yourself to explore!
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: CAPRI
Capri is essentially a small mountain. We visited La Fontelina beach club, which is on the complete other side of the island from the Marina. There were no taxis available when we arrived and it was only a 35 minute walk (or so the GPS said), so we decided to just walk. Don’t. It is not a walk, it is a CLIMB. Just wait for the taxi – trust me. The center of town where you’ll find the best shopping and restaurants is at the tip-top of the island as well. If you take no other advice from this blog post, please just take this – WAIT FOR A TAXI.
Getting to Positano
Now that I’ve talked about all the fun things to do once you arrive in Positano, let’s talk about how you’ll get there! Unfortunately, there’s no train running directly into Positano, so you have to get a bit more creative.
FROM ROME | If you’re traveling from Rome, I recommend taking the train into Salerno (1.5-2hrs), then taking a ferry from Salerno to Positano (1-1.5hrs). Salerno’s train station is right across the street from the Molo Concordia ferry port (about a 5min walk). Keep in mind, Salerno does have two ferry ports so make sure your ferry departs from Molo Concordia!
FROM NAPLES | From Naples, you can take a ferry straight to Positano (1.5-2.5hrs).
Some people will use the bus system to get between the Amalfi towns, but I strongly recommend avoiding the buses at all costs unless 100% necessary. The ferries are very affordable, easy, and not nearly as crowded as the buses.
Where to Stay
LE Sirenuse
A breathtakingly beautiful 5-star hotel with stunning views of Positano and the sea. Here, you will find elegant rooms with private balconies, an oyster bar, a Michelin-star restaurant, and a gorgeous rooftop pool. This is one of the best hotels in Positano, and it books out far in advance!
Hotel Poseidon
This 4-star hotel also offers stunning views over Positano. Each room is unique, furnished and decorated with items actually owned by the owner’s family members over the years. Hotel Poseidon is also home to Il Tridente, one of the most iconic restaurants on the coast!
hotel savoia
Another 4-star hotel at a fraction of the cost of the two hotels previously mentioned! This hotel is also family-owned and in an incredible location close to everything. Some rooms offer private balconies, and some even have jacuzzis! The restaurant, D’Aiello, is delicious – the gnocchi is amazing!
MARINCANTO
This 4-star hotel offers something no other hotel in Positano has – a private beach! Their private beach club is gorgeous – outfitted in yellow loungers and white umbrellas right on the coastline. Many rooms offer private balconies as well. Their restaurant, Terrazza Cele, was easily our favorite meal in Positano!