The moment I stepped foot into Edinburgh, I knew it would be one of my favorite cities. It’s cozy, moody, and absolutely magical. Walking through the Victorian Old Town feels like being transported back in time, and nearly every street looks like it’s straight out of a fantasy novel. In fact, Edinburgh has actually inspired a number of books and movies – Harry Potter being one of them. For all my autumn lovers, book nerds, and photography hobbyists, this post is dedicated to you. Here’s the ultimate travel guide to Edinburgh, Scotland!
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How to Get to Edinburgh
The main international airport in Scotland is Edinburgh Airport (EDI). If coming from elsewhere in the United Kingdom, I recommend taking a train or coach bus into the city.
Once in Edinburgh, you can get around essentially everywhere on foot! It’s a very walkable city, we actually did not call a cab once! If you do choose to venture out a bit further, Edinburgh has a very reliable tram system.
Old Town
The Old Town is in the heart of Edinburgh. The Castle rises high above the city on Castle Rock, with cobblestone alleyways winding all around it. The history here has been carefully preserved, and it almost feels like you are stepping back in time as you walk down the streets. Many of the places you’ll read about on this travel guide are located in the Old Town.
Dean Village
Dean Village is probably the most magical place in Edinburgh. The village was built on the Water of Leith in the twelfth century and originally functioned as a successful milling town due to the powerful currents of the river. The village was abandoned in the twentieth century, but the buildings (and charm) were preserved. Despite being quite close to the city center (less than twenty minutes walking), the village remains a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle. It’s very small so it only takes a short time to walk through (about an hour or so), but it’s absolutely worth a visit!
Stockbridge
About a twenty minute walk from Edinburgh’s city center sits the suburbs of Stockbridge. This charming little neighborhood is lined with Georgian houses, elegant shops, trendy restaurants, and beautiful architecture. It has much more of a local and residential feel in comparison to the Old Town of Edinburgh. Head here for an afternoon and get lost in the streets for a little while, stopping in cute shops and wine bars. Enjoy a lovely dinner then grab a nightcap at a cozy little cocktail bar!
Cockburn Street
Stroll along the famous Cockburn street and feel as though you’ve been transported to the grounds of Hogwarts. The curved Victorian street is lined with unique shops, cafés, and pubs. Grab a coffee and a pastry from Milkman, the cutest café in Edinburgh. Then, pop in to Museum Context for all the Harry Potter memorabilia, books with witchcraft and spells, and other fun souvenirs.
A Look Inside Museum Context
Victoria Street
Haven’t gotten your Harry Potter fill yet? Perfect – head to Victoria Street next, the real-life Diagon Alley! The bright shop faces contrast with the cobblestone path and dramatic Victorian architecture. It’s such an interesting street! You’ll find more boutique shops, as well as several Scottish pubs!
Princes Street
Princes Street is the main shopping street in Edinburgh. Here, you will find plenty of high end retailers and department stores lining one side of the street, and beautiful sprawling gardens on the other with the castle in the backdrop. The famous Scott Monument can also be found on Princes Street!
Circus Lane
The prettiest lane in Edinburgh! Floral terraces line the cobblestone street, giving the path so much charm. This is a residential area, so please be extra mindful and respectful.
Vennel Viewpoint
Located just off of The Grassmarket is the Vennel Staircase, a charming lookout point with a unique view of Edinburgh Castle. The steps do get a bit busy, so I recommend visiting early in the morning for the fewest crowds!
Royal Mile
Stretching from Edinburgh Castle to The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the Royal Mile, the city’s most famous and most busy street. As you can imagine, it’s quite touristy, but it’s still well worth the walk down it. You’ll find plenty of historic buildings and monuments, unique restaurants, an array of souvenir shops, and street performers (hello bagpipes!)
Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle is one of the oldest fortified places in Europe, with a very long and interesting history. The fortress sits atop Castle Rock, and has been inhabited since the Iron Age. The Castle itself was built in the 11th century and remained a royal residence for four centuries after. Walk through the palace and see the UK’s oldest Crown Jewels, see the Great Hall and the military garrison, then head to the dungeons where criminals and prisoners of war were kept. The history here is so incredibly rich and interesting; definitely don’t miss this on your trip! I strongly recommend booking your tickets ahead of time, as they do sell out.
Scott Monument
Located in the Gardens on Princes Street, it’s pretty hard to miss the iconic Scott Monument. The towering Victorian structure was built as a tribute to Sir Walter Scott, a beloved Scottish author. It’s the second largest monument dedicated to a writer in the world! Another fun fact: the Edinburgh Waverly Station was also named as an ode to Sir Walter Scott’s Waverly novels (so he was kind of a big deal). Literary geek or not, the Scott Monument is unmissable just for its stunning gothic architecture alone.
The Meadow
It’s unlikely for me to write a city guide without including a park – I always need a bit of a break from the hustle and bustle to just slow down and enjoy the moment. There are several parks in Edinburgh, but the Meadow is by far the largest! Visiting in autumn is a dream, with orange leaves littering each and every step. Grab a hot cocoa from Uplands Roast (the BEST hot cocoa in the world – trust me) and settle down on a bench with a book for a bit, watching the world go by.
Greyfriar Kirkyard Cemetery
The Greyfriar Cemetery is said to be the most haunted graveyard in the world. On entry, you’re immediately greeted by the graveyard’s cutest tenant: Greyfriars Bobby. This sweet little dog guarded his owner’s grave for fourteen years after his passing, earning him a memorial in his honor. Some people believe he still guards the graveyard to this day – there have been reports of disembodied barking and sights of a ghost-dog running through the grounds.
However, it’s not just a friendly dog haunting this place – there have been countless reports of paranormal activity occurring in the Black Tomb of “Bloody Mackenzie”. George Mackenzie was responsible for hundreds of protestant deaths in the 1600s (so needless to say, he was a bad person). Since 1990, there have been nearly 400 reports of people being scratched, bitten, or pushed when entering the Black Tomb. An exorcist was even brought in to deal with Mackenzie, but he left the site almost immediately after entering the tomb and died of a heart attack two weeks later. The Black Tomb is now locked up, but you can still sneak a peak through the grate (if you dare).
The Grassmarket
While we’re on the topic of Edinburgh’s past, let’s talk about The Grassmarket: a large square in the Old Town of Edinburgh. The square originally functioned as a meeting place for markets, public executions, and riots. Now, The Grassmarket functions as a lively area with plenty of restaurants, pubs, and shopping!
Visit A Bookshop
Being the coziest city in the world, of course Edinburgh is full of vintage bookshops. Here’s a few I recommend checking out:
ARMCHAIR BOOKS | A quirky little bookshop full of antique books and charm. You could get lost in here for hours!
MCNAUGHTONS AND TYPEWRONGER | Another cozy little spot – one half is an old bookshop and the other is new age. Ask for a cup of tea – they’ll be happy to make you one!
TOPPING AND COMPANY | Each room is dedicated to a different genre, and the rooms are so cozy with windows looking out into the city.
WATERSTONES | The cutest bookshop and café with a massive window overlooking Edinburgh Castle. Get here early for a window seat!
The BEST restaurant in all of Edinburgh! The space absolutely fits the name – the beautiful gothic interior is perfectly witchy. The food and wine is divine too – I highly recommend both the halibut and the dry-aged filet. Fantastic food, fantastic service, fantastic vibes – 10/10 experience overall! Make a reservation here!
This gorgeous upscale cocktail bar is the perfect spot for a happy hour after a long day exploring the city. Bar Prince is located inside The Balmoral hotel, just past the iconic Scott Monument! Settle in to a chair and sip on one of their numerous champagne cocktails, or grab something from their martini menu.
If you’re hungry for more than a drink and a snack, make a dinner reservation at Brasserie Prince!
Milkman
Somewhat of a centerpiece of Cockburn Street, Milkman is probably the most famous café in Edinburgh. The coffee is good, but the pastries are AMAZING. The space is quite small, and there’s only about 6-7 seats inside the actual café. However, if you get here early you can snag the little bench seat overlooking Cockburn Street and enjoy a cozy little morning!
A close second favorite behind the Witchery is Skua, a moody and intimate dinner spot located in Stockbridge. The menu is seasonal and rotates regularly, so everything is always fresh. The waiters made us feel like old friends, and we ended up chatting for quite a while. Make sure you snag a reservation! After dinner, grab a post-dinner cocktail just around the corner at The Last Word, a cozy little bar loved by all the Edinburgh locals.
We couldn’t visit Scotland without visiting a traditional Scottish pub. As I’m not really one for heavy comfort food (and that’s essentially the cornerstone of Scottish pub food), I was pretty skeptical about which one to visit. The Last Drop absolutely did not disappoint – the cider, nachos, and chicken were all perfection. The interior of the pub was just so cozy and welcoming – we ended up staying here for a while! It’s located in Grassmarket, making it a perfect stop after a day of sightseeing!
This adorable little wine bar was an accidental find while roaming through Stockbridge, and we are so glad we found it! The menu consists of several wine tastings (with cheese pairings), as well as an extensive wine list. The bartenders are so knowledgable about every single wine too!
We stayed at Eden Locke, a cozy little boutique hotel located in New Town. Each suite is equipped with a kitchen, living room, washer/dryer, a luxurious bathroom, and underfloor heating. You’ll also find an adorable café and coworking space on the ground level! It’s in an ideal location, and was walking distance from everything that we did during our time in Edinburgh!
If you’re looking for something luxurious, opulent, and moody, look no further than The Witchery. It’s located in Old Town, just a few minutes walk from Edinburgh Castle. This boutique hotel has the most decadent suites, with gothic styles, rich colors, and lavish decor. It is absolutely a one of a kind experience, and you’ll get to feel like royalty going to bed each night. I also highly recommend having lunch or dinner in their restaurant, it’s a must do!
For a traditional Scottish flair, check out 100 Princes Street. The five-star hotel is located on (you guessed it) Princes Street, making it a prime location! The rooms are dressed with Scottish tartan prints, rich hues, and luxurious decor. Some suites offer castle views, others offer a private terrace, and some even have fireplaces!
Also located in Old Town is the beautiful Scotsman hotel. The rooms are all so aesthetically pleasing here, everything looks so clean and beautiful! Each room offers a beautiful view over the city as well.