Nestled deep in the Sacred Valley of the Andes sits the little Incan town of Ollantaytambo. This charming little town is fairly well known – it’s a major stop along the way from Cusco to Machu Picchu. However, many people really only see the train station of Ollantaytambo as they scramble onto the IncaRail or Vistadome Train excited to see one of the wonders of the world. The truth is Ollantaytambo makes for one of the best bases for exploring the Sacred Valley and seeing Machu Picchu! It’s a very culturally rich town as well, so you’ll really get a taste for Quechuan culture, foods, and way of life during your time here. Here’s my guide to exploring the Sacred Valley of Peru (and of course, Machu Picchu!)
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Getting To the Sacred Valley
The town of Ollantaytambo and the Sacred Valley lie just west of Cusco. We flew from Lima to Cusco, then had a transfer to our accommodation in Ollantaytambo. Most hotels will arrange this for you! Keep in mind, it’s not a short drive (about 2 hours), so make sure you factor this into your plans.
Day One: Check In to The Stardome Lodge
It’s time for me to share one of my favorite accommodations ever: The Stardome Lodge in Ollantaytambo. This mountain lodge offers incredible views over the Andes, and an absolutely beautiful experience. There’s only six rooms, so it’s quite intimate. Breakfast and dinner are served by the owners of the lodge, who you’ll get to know during your stay. I highly recommend asking Carlos about the origins of Stardome – it’s a beautiful story.
The lodge offers tours to Machu Picchu, the Salt Flats + Moray, tours of the Ollantaytambo Ruins, and other trekking experiences through the Sacred Valley. You can also participate in sacred ceremonies and rituals on site at their temple!
Spend your first day in Ollantaytambo relaxing and adjusting to the altitude. We spent some time getting settled into the Serpiente Suite before heading up to the temple for a Despacho ceremony. This sacred ritual allows you to connect with nature, cleanse your energy, and express gratitude for everything around you. It offered intimate insight into Quechuan culture and spiritual practices. Afterwards, we watched the sunset and enjoyed some tea before sitting down for an incredible four-course dinner. A perfect evening!
Day Two: Explore Ollantaytambo
We started our morning waking up to the most incredible views over the Andes. Seriously – I could not get over this place! After a lovely breakfast at Stardome, we headed down to the heart of town.
Since Stardome is about a 15 minute winding drive up into the mountains, they offer a complimentary driver to and from town once a day, which is quite convenient!
Here’s some things to do in the town of Ollantaytambo:
See The Ruins
The first and most obvious thing to do is see the famous ruins. These ruins were originally a fortress to protect the town against Spanish invaders in the 16th century, and are now the second best preserved ruins in Peru (Machu Picchu being the first, of course). You can explore the ruins with a guide or simply purchase a boleto touristico on site and explore them yourself. Keep in mind, this ticket will grant you access to many other sights in Peru!
You can also see the Pinkuylluna Ruins, another archaeological site! The Pinkylluna Ruins are free, and require a short hike to get to (about half a mile).
Wander the Streets
It truly wouldn’t be a Runaway Blonde travel guide without me telling you to get lost. Start in the main square, and explore all the tiny little streets branching off! You’ll be rewarded with quiet shops, vendors selling quality alpaca items, and slivers of mountain views between the alleyways.
Grab Lunch at Chullpi
Arguably our best meal in Peru, Chullpi was one of the highlights of this little town! We were starving after hiking up and down the steep steps of the ruins. Our server was one of the nicest people I’ve ever met, and his kindness was contagious. And the FOOD – it was incredible. The ceviche and lomo saltado were absolutely out of this world. I cannot recommend this place enough!
Browse the Markets
Stop by Mercado San Pedro to embrace the authenticity that Ollantaytambo has preserved, despite seeing thousands of tourists on a regular basis. This little plaza gives you great insight into daily life and Quechuan culture.
There’s also a souvenir market at the base of the Ollantaytambo ruins. It’s definitely more touristy, but you can still find some great items and support the locals here!
Tip: When shopping for alpaca goods, place your hand on the item. Genuine alpaca wool will feel cool to touch.
Day Three: Machu Picchu
It’s finally time for one of the most exciting days you’ll experience during your time in Peru – seeing Machu Picchu. These Incan ruins date back to the 1400s, but were hidden by thick vegetation for many years and didn’t resurface until 1911, when they were discovered on accident. (I found that fact so interesting – the archaeologist that rediscovered Machu Picchu wasn’t even looking for it!)
Despite their age, the ruins are incredibly preserved – you can walk through rooms the people lived in and worshipped in, see the way they filtered water and farmed, and get an insight to their lives so long ago.
A good deal of planning is required for your trip to Machu Picchu. We booked our experience through Stardome, who arranged absolutely every last detail for us. However, if you choose to stay elsewhere or don’t want to book the Stardome tour, here’s what you’ll need:
A ROUNDTRIP TRAIN TICKET
You will need a roundtrip train ticket from Ollantaytambo or Cusco to Aguas Calientes (the town at the base of Machu Picchu). The train from Ollantaytambo lasts two hours, and the one from Cusco is four hours. This is another reason I highly recommend basing yourself in Ollantaytambo for your visit to Machu Picchu!
There are several different options: IncaRail, Vistadome, Expedition, etc. Each offers a slightly different experience, but all will supply you with stunning views the entire ride.
A Roundtrip Bus Ticket
Once you arrive via train in Aguas Calientes, you will have a short walk to the bus station. I recommend arriving to the buses at least one hour before your entry time to Machu Picchu, as the lines get long!
The town itself of Aguas Calientes has plenty of restaurants and shops. If you’ve got some time between your train and bus, there’s a lot of places to grab a bite to eat! There are also some hotels here, so some people opt to spend the night here so they can be the among the first visitors at the ruins early in the morning!
ENTRY TICKET TO Machu Picchu
Lastly, you’ll obviously need a ticket to enter the ruins. The ticket will include an entrance time, and you have one hour to enter from that time. Once inside, you have four hours to explore the ruins.
IMPORTANT: Machu Picchu only allows a set number of visitors per day to preserve the ruins and prevent damage to the site (there is already some evidence of damage to the soil from heavy foot traffic). Because of this, you will need to make sure you buy your entry ticket AHEAD OF TIME – AT LEAST THREE MONTHS IN ADVANCE.
Important Things to Bring
You will need your passport to enter to ruins, so make sure to bring it! Only small backpacks/purses are allowed, but there is a bag-check for backpackers and those who hiked the Incan trail. Remember to bring water, sunscreen, and bug spray – there is very little shade and it gets quite hot at Machu Picchu, despite the cooler weather elsewhere in the mountains. Cameras of all shapes and sizes are allowed but tripods and drones are prohibited.
Day Four: The Salt Flats and Moray
We unfortunately missed this due to some personal circumstances, but I will absolutely be sure to visit upon my return to Peru!
The Maras Salt Mines are a stretch of thousands of crystallized salt pools. They have been used for the last five centuries to mine Peruvian pink salt, and they are really interesting to see!
Moray is a fascinating archaeological site compromised of massive ringed terraces, thought to be used for agriculture. It’s quite beautiful to look at too!
Stardome offers a tour of these sites, including transportation and a guide! If you’re staying elsewhere, here’s another tour option.
Visiting Peru? See my full guide here!