Sicily – a melting pot of diverse cultures and landscapes, all fused into one beautiful island in the Mediterranean. The island was originally occupied by the Greeks, before falling to the Romans in 212 BC. The beautiful harmony of Greek and Roman influence still runs deep through Sicily today. Explore the bustling cities built around ancient ruins, live the “dolce far niente” lifestyle on the beaches of a coastal town, and hike an active volcano while it erupts. Here is my ultimate travel guide to visiting Sicily!
Please note, some of the links in this blog are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission on any purchase made at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting A Runaway Blonde!
Getting to Sicily
My best recommendation for travel into Sicily is by flying into one of its main airports. You can fly into PMO (Palermo) or CTA (Catania). The choice is really just dependent on which side of Sicily you would prefer to begin your trip! For us, we flew into Palermo and traveled the western side of the island, then made our way east and flew back home from Catania.
WESTERN SICILY: Palermo, Scopello, Cefalù
EASTERN SICILY: Catania, Taormina, Syracuse/Ortigia, Mount Etna
Exploring Sicily
Best Places to Visit
How Should I Get Around Sicily?
Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean, so exploring the island can take a bit of planning. You really have two options: public transportation or renting a car.
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION | The best option if you’re only visiting the main areas of Sicily! The train system is extensive and very easy to use. Many train stations are local to the towns, so you can walk to your accommodation from the station. In Taormina, you might have to take a 5-10min taxi to your hotel, but it’s generally pretty cheap. The buses can be confusing and often unreliable, but are another option you can use as well.
CAR RENTAL | The best option if you’re wanting to get off the beaten track. Parking in most towns of Sicily can be incredibly difficult, so I really would only recommend a car rental if absolutely necessary!
Palermo
Our time in Sicily began in the capital city of Palermo, a vibrant and bustling city on the northwestern coast of the island. I’ll be honest – Palermo wasn’t my favorite. It felt a bit dirty and we didn’t feel as safe here as we did in other cities in Italy. We only spent a day here, mainly to see some of the historical and cultural sites!
PALERMO CATHEDRAL | An impressive cathedral built in the 12th century. The cathedral and surrounding courtyard are beautiful!
CHURCH OF SAN CATALDO | Another church from the 12th century, built with three iconic red domes atop it.
TEATRO MASSIMO | The largest theater in all of Italy, an the third largest in the world! You might recognize it from The Godfather. Performances are still held here, so check the calendar if you’re interested!
VISIT A STREET MARKET | Palermo is well known for it’s foodie scene! A great way to try local foods and experience authentic Sicilian culture is by checking out one of the food markets. There are three: Ballaro, Vucciaria, and Capo.
HAVE A CANNOLI | The cannoli originated in Sicily! Stop in at Cannoli & Co for a mouthwatering treat.
Where to Stay in Palermo
LA TERAZZA SUL CENTRO | A simple hotel offering basic rooms, but an incredible rooftop view over the city of Palermo! Complimentary breakfast is offered on the terrace each morning, so you can enjoy the views of the cathedral and streets from above!
VOSSIA LUXURY ROOMS & SICILIAN LIVING | An absolutely stunning sustainable bed and breakfast in a great location. Stay in a room with a balcony, or even in a room with its own personal sauna!
Cefalù
From Palermo, we headed east to Cefalù, a charming town on the north coast of the island. Cefalù originally served as a fishing village, and this old-world charm still runs through its veins today. Cefalù is often visited as a day trip from Palermo, but I feel that you can only truly enjoy the slow paced living of the town by spending a couple of days here. We spent two days: one exploring the town, and the other relaxing on the beach!
EXPLORE THE TOWN
SIMPLY JUST WANDER | Stroll along Corso Ruggero II, the main street running through the heart of the town. Wander off on the side streets, exploring cafés, shops, and restaurants.
PIAZZA DUOMO | Gaze upon Cefalù’s Duomo, grab a coffee or a gelato from one of the shops, and enjoy some people watching in the square. This area gets quite busy, but it’s one of the most beautiful parts of town.
PIAZZA GARIBALDI | A much smaller piazza, and further from the town’s center. This is great place to enjoy a quiet aperitivo. The starting point for the hike up La Rocca is also here.
HIKE LA ROCCA | A 284m hike up a mountain offering sweeping views over the town and the coast. There are also some ruins from an ancient castle to see along this hike!
Enjoy a Beach day
Cefalù is one of the few places in Italy you will find sandy beaches rather than pebbles! Here’s a few spots where you can enjoy a relaxing day at the beach:
LIDO ANGELI DE MARE | A beach club with sunbeds, umbrellas, as well as a bar serving drinks and snacks! 2 sunbeds and an umbrella are 20€ during the week and 25€ on the weekend!
PORTA PESCARA | An adorable little port on the edge of Cefalù with an iconic view over the coast. We paid 30€ for two sunbeds and an umbrella on the front row.
PUBLIC BEACH | If you’re not one for beach clubs, lay out your towel and spend the day relaxing on the sand! The beach is especially magical at sunset, when the sun casts a golden glow over the sand and the town.
Eat + Drink
B.I.F. | The best meal we had in Sicily, and quite possibly in all of Italy! This steakhouse serves up perfectly cooked meats, as well as exceptional pasta. The sommelier took us to the wine cellar to browse the perfect wines based on what we ordered. 10/10 experience – I can’t recommend this place enough! Make a reservation here.
22 CUCINA ISOLA | This restaurant was quite new when we visited, but I’m predicting it will have a Michelin Star by the time we visit Sicily again. The dishes were so unique and delicious. I highly recommend making a reservation!
TINCHITE | Translating to “too much” in English, this adorable little tavern offers plenty of local Sicilian foods with fresh ingredients and great flavor.
SICILIAN FOOD AND DRINK | A little gastropub near Porta Pescara. We came here for lunch and a break from the sun, and the food was incredible!
Where to Stay in Cefalu
SALEMARE ROOMS AND SUITES | A beautiful hotel steps away from Cefalù beach! Each guest room offers a balcony, some with views of the sea. Enjoy a complimentary breakfast each morning while gazing over the coast!
OSSUNA BAY BOUTIQUE HOTEL | Another option just a minute away from Cefalù beach! Some rooms offer sea views or balconies, and complimentary breakfast is served each morning!
Scopello
Located about an hour west of Palermo sits the tiny little coastal village of Scopello. The village is centered around a baglio (a large farm), which has now been restored into restaurants, cafés, and shops. Scopello was historically known for its tuna fishing, and the tonnara (tuna fishery) has since been remodeled into a museum and hotel. This little inlet is a beautiful place to spend quiet afternoons on the craggy coastline, gazing out among the sea stacks and blue waters.
STAY AT TONNARA DI SCOPELLO | Tuna fishery turned museum/hotel, this beautiful tonnara sits on the edge of the village and offers stunning views of the sea right from your room. Staying at the hotel will grant you private access into some quieter areas of the coastline as well! Book your stay here (and do so early, rooms fill up quickly!)
EXPLORE THE HISTORIC VILLAGE | The village is tiny and can easily be seen in a few hours. Browse the restaurants, shops, and cafés while really embracing the art of slow living here!
VENTURE INTO THE LO ZINGARA NATURE RESERVE | Stretching 7km long and dotted with six beaches and coastal views, Lo Zingara is a beautiful addition to your Scopello itinerary. The reserve can only be traveled on foot (or on horseback), so you’ll have to leave your rental car at one of the entrances then hike the path.
Taormina
Now, let’s venture into my favorite part of Sicily: Taormina! You’ve likely already heard of this beautiful town from the show White Lotus or simply just from Instagram. The charming town of Taormina sits on a hilltop, with dramatic cliffs plunging down to pebble beaches and turquoise water. It’s the perfect place to enjoy an Italian summer!
Explore the town
WALK ALONG CORSO UMBERTO | The main street running through town, Corso Umberto is the perfect place to start exploring Taormina. Peruse the artisan shops, stop in a café or restaurant for a bite, or wander down the quiet paths winding off from the main street.
ENJOY A MOMENT IN PIAZZA IX APRILE | Located right in the center of Corso Umberto is the main square of Taormina. This piazza is often buzzing with live music and performances, people dancing, and plenty of outdoor cafés. The square houses Chiesa di San Giuseppi, a pink Sicilian church from the 17th century. Venture toward the edge of the square, where you can enjoy sweeping views of the coastline.
VISIT THE TEATRO ANTICO | This ancient theatre was built in the 3rd century, and is one of the best preserved ancient theaters in Italy! Performances are still held here today, showcased with a backdrop of the city and coast. Even if you don’t go for a performance, you can still visit the theater for 10€!
STROLL THROUGH THE GARDENS | The Taormina gardens have such an interesting story – they were the residence of an English noblewoman who had to flee the country after having an affair with the king. The ruins of her home still stand amongst the lush greenery of the gardens, with plaques detailing the history posted throughout.
Relax on the Beaches
ISOLA BELLA | A small island just a stone’s throw away from Taormina. At low tide, there’s actually a strip of pebble beach connecting Taormina’s coast to the island! The island itself houses a Baroque palace and impressive garden. The beach leading up to the island has several lidos where you can rent a chair and umbrella for the day:
- Resort One: 80€ for 2 chairs and an umbrella. Make a reservation in advance for front row!
- Mendolia: 45€ for two chairs and an umbrella. Get here early to get a spot as it fills up by 11am!
MAZZARO BEACH | Directly connected to the town of Taormina via cable car is Mazzaro beach. This pebble beach offers several beach clubs, as well as free public beach access! I highly recommend spending the day at Lido La Pigna, a colorful beach club with fantastic service. You can order pizza or sandwiches to enjoy on the beach, or head up to the restaurant for a full menu of Sicilian and Italian dishes! Reserve ahead of time for a spot on the front row.
TRAVEL TIP | Taormina town is situated high up on the cliffs above the coast. The best way to get between the town and coast is by taking the cable car! The cable car runs every 15 minutes between Taormina and Mazzaro, and costs 10€ for a roundtrip ticket or 6€ one way. Tickets are purchased directly in the station!
Eat + Drink
STOP FOR GRANITA AT BAM BAR | You can’t visit Sicily without trying their signature treat, granita! Often enjoyed with brioche, this icy dessert is the perfect way to cool off in the heat of summer. We tried granita at a few places, but Bam Bam was by far our favorite! It is a popular spot so the queue can get long, but I promise it’s worth it!
OSTERIA DA RITA | We really weren’t impressed with many restaurants in Taormina – a lot of them felt touristy and the food just didn’t compare to the food we had in Cefalù. However, Osteria da Rita was a welcomed surprise after several disappointments! The food was so fresh and delicious here. The service was excellent too – we accidentally arrived before they opened and they kindly sat us and offered us a drink while we waited for the kitchen to open. This seems to be a popular spot as well though – the restaurant was full within 10 minutes of being open.
CIRCE | We stumbled upon this wine bar in town, and it turned out to be an incredible find! Pop in for a glass of wine and a bite, or do what we did and enjoy an entire wine tasting!
Where to Stay in Taormina
When choosing an accommodation in Taormina, you can either choose to stay in Taormina town, or in Mazzaro (by the beach). From either of these, you can easily take the cable car back and forth! Accommodations in town are generally more affordable, while you will find more luxurious stays in Mazzaro!
Taormina Town
SPLENDID HOTEL | A beautiful four-star hotel offering rooms with balconies and views over the Calabrian sea! The location is fantastic too, it’s just a three minute walk to Taormina’s main street!
VILLA D’ORVILLE LUXURY SUITES | A simple, modern bed and breakfast in a prime location!
Mazzaro
IANCU CHARME APARTMENTS | A sustainable hotel with luxurious rooms and large balconies overlooking the sea. Croissants were delivered to our room each morning, and a bottle of wine was gifted as well. I highly recommend staying in the loft for a panoramic view over the coast and a personal hot tub! The apartments offer a pool as well, although we didn’t use it since we opted for the beach instead.
ATLANTIS BAY | An absolutely stunning luxury hotel on the water! Rooms offer views over the sea, the amenities (especially the pool) are gorgeous, and the restaurant provides an incredible dining experience!
VILLA SANT’ANDREA, A BELMOND HOTEL | This five-star luxury resort is a gorgeous place to stay during your time in Taormina. The rooms are elegant, views over the sea are wonderful, and hospitality is impeccable. The hotel offers a private beach, pool, and a restaurant overlooking the sea. This is the perfect choice for a honeymoon, anniversary, or just a luxurious romantic getaway!
Syracuse + Ortigia
Head south along the eastern coast of Sicily to reach the city of Syracuse and the island of Ortigia. The tiny little island of Ortigia is actually the historic center of the Ancient Greek city of Syracuse, so your visit will include both! This can absolutely be done as a day trip from Taormina, or you could opt to spend a couple nights here!
Due to changes in public transportation during our time in Sicily, all trains running to Syracuse were cancelled. Locals were offering up rides to Syracuse in their personal cars, but this felt a bit unsafe (especially as two female travelers), so we ended up missing out on this experience. We hope to get to visit on our next trip to Sicily! Here’s what we had planned:
ENJOY THE BEACH AT FORTE VIGLIENA | This rocky beach is a gorgeous spot to sunbathe or go swimming! During the high season, a wooden platform is erected to offer more space for beachgoers to throw down a towel – but you’ll have to get here early for a spot!
TAKE A WALKING TOUR OF ORTIGIA | For all my history buffs, this is a great way to see the best sights of the ancient island and gain a deeper understanding of the history behind it! Here’s a great group tour to check out.
SEE THE GREEK THEATRE | It’s no surprise that this ancient island is packed with rich history. Check out the Greek theatre, constructed in the 5th century BC!
HAVE SUNSET DRINKS ON LUNGOMARE ALFEO | Stroll along this waterfront promenade, find a wonderful spot for an aperitivo, and watch the sun sink over the water. It’s the perfect end to your day in this beautiful stretch of Sicily!
Mount Etna
About an hour from Catania and an hour from Taormina, sits Mount Etna – an active volcano dating back 2.5 million years. Ancient Greeks have many mythological tales involving the notorious volcano – such as that of the god of fire or the cyclops. The volcano still has eruptions several times a year, and sometimes even several times a month! Luckily, its activity is generally low-level, making it safe to visit even during an eruption.
I would highly recommend making this trek with a local guide – in fact, if you wish to hike past the 2,900 meter mark a guide is mandatory.